Darien Tempranillo, Rioja

This wine offers a very fruity nose, almost like cheesecake topped with berries and drizzled with molasses. But it smells worse than it sounds. On the tongue, it’s slightly effervescent, with caramelized fruit. So many of these Spanish wines are aspiring to a new-world, fruit-forward style—and end up falling flat on their face. This one is a case in point.